Welcome to the Motorcycle Travel Blog Japan Part I – Tokyo to Takayama. We are trying something new with this Japan Series. Thanks to social media we get impressions of places we haven’t visited yet. I had an idea of the motorcycle shows and events put on in Japan. I have seen countless photos of vintage English motorcycles, custom Harley’s, and Japan’s own custom scene Bosozoku. Did these images prepare me for my own motorcycling adventure in this faraway land? Not one bit!
How do I arrange a motorcycle in Japan?
Paperwork
First things first: paperwork. Japan requires foreigners to have an international driving permit (IDP) based on the 1949 Geneva Convention to be allowed to drive in Japan for one year. You need to obtain this permit in your home country. There are however a few exceptions: Belgium, France, Germany, Monaco, Switzerland and Taiwan do not adhere to this convention. This means that if you have a driving license from one of these country, you will need to apply to a Japanese translation of your license with the Japan Automobile Federation (JAF). You can apply online, upload a scan of your license and passport, pay the fees (4000 YEN), and print the official translation documents at one of the many 7 Eleven convenience stores via a reference code.
Introductions
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
After sorting out the paperwork, I reached out to a friend of a friend. A well known name in the industry is Tadashi Kono. Freelance journalist, photographer, and arguably the hardest working man in the industry. In the time I spent putting around Japan, he attended 2 motorcycle shows and 2 press releases, on 3 continents. Having both attended and covered at least two events last year, we managed to not meet in Europe. So we officially met in Japan! At Ortiga, in Asakusa, Tokyo, we had a coffee and came up with the idea to arrange a motorcycle. Kono-san then introduced me to Miwa-san at Moto Tours Japan Ltd.
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
The Rental and Touring Company
MTJ is a subsidiary of Kizuki Ltd and a sister company of 819 Rentals, the largest motorcycle rental company in the country. 819 Rentals ensures that the MTJ fleet is up to date and well-maintained. No motorcycle is older than 2 years or has more than 20,000km on the clock. The team at MTJ organises guided and self-guided tours, from as short as 3 days, 2 nights up to 30 days. They also offer tailored tours with as little as the motorcycle and a general direction, through to planned routes and hotels, to the full package with a guide and a support van. You can start in one of the major cities, Tokyo or Kyoto, or in a smaller cities, such as Sendai or Matsuyama. Additionally, they offer support in case of emergencies and roadside assistance. Before the tour starts, every rider is briefed thoroughly on the Japanese road rules.
In a spur of the moment, James at MTJ agreed to set me up with a Honda African Twin 1100. I offered the words and photographs on the website you’re looking at now in exchange. Additionally, I mumbled into my phone and took some videos while discovering the beauty of the land of the rising sun. Head over to the BikeBrewers Instagram Japan 2024 Highlights if you missed them or want to revisit!
Finding Fuji
I anticipated that I would be a little late for the cherry blossom season, but the trees kindly waited for me. As I set my sights for Mount Fuji, I was spoiled with avenues lined with Sakura, for example in the beach and surf town Kamakura. I wasn’t the only one to have discovered this town, and tourists from all over Japan, and all over the world really, crowded the street leading up to the Shinto Shrine Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. After spending the morning on this warm day surrounded by too manypeople, I looked for some solitude on the beach (and found some!) and I had lunch with a former colleague: omakase, or chef’s menu, in Italian-Japanese fusion style. What a delight! Time to make tracks, though, I want to see Mt. Fuji!
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
Getting into the Yamanashi prefecture, I was met with rain and fog. Where were the impressive views of Mt Fuji I was promised?! Maybe I’d get lucky in the morning… I checked into a hostel and warmed myself up with a bowl of ramen noodle soup.
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
I’m in luck
The next morning was a crisp 5 degrees Celsius, and clear skies! Ohayo gozaimasu Fuji-san! Good morning dear Fuji! Instead of hiking up the volcano, my plan was to ride up to the highest station. I looked forward to enjoying the curves and views. I arrived at the gates to the park half an hour before they opened, 5th in the queue. The drivers of the touring cars and minivans were kind enough to let me take the lead. The Africa Twin leans into a corner a little further than a 50 seater coach. Very considerate of them! Unfortunately, at the fourth station, the clouds had caught up with me. A giant gate barred the road and there was an unlucky guard who would be here in the cold all day. Sadly I did not get the views I was hoping for.
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
Into the Alps
Time to head north and explore “the Japanese Alps” in the Nagano prefecture. Circumventing Mt Gongen, Aka, Iō, and Tentu, I wanted to take full advantage of route 299 “Marchen Road”. A glorious mountain pass between Mt Maruyama, Reizan, and Chausu, that promised many curves and views. Little did I know that I would meet another gate. The pass was still closed for the season :(
This threw a spanner into my plans: a 2h detour and missing lunch at the cafe on the pass. A quick convenience store lunch would have to do. Despite the extra riding time, I stopped in Narai-Juku, a former station city before the Tori pass. This small village has a main street lined with traditional wooden houses. The atmosphere here, especially towards the end of the afternoon when most tourists have left again, is slightly mysterious. There is history here and it is retained in the blackened, weathered wood. A brief walk to stretch my legs and a cup of coffee to recharge were very welcome. Continuing the drive, I opted for the Kiso pass, following the Kuro river, to cross the mountain range, and rolled into Takayama after sunset.
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
Photo by Casper van der Ven Copyright © 2024 Casper van der Ven, all rights reserved.
